But how would she express that in a pandemic, when physical shows are not possible? Burton turned to the British movie director Jonathan Glazer, best known for Sexy Beast and Under The Skin. He’d never done a fashion film before and she was more used to the immediacy of a live runway, but together they created a film set on the beaches and bridges of the River Thames, starring the best-dressed mudlarks you’ll ever see.
The film begins with two models wading through the water in their party dresses; lockdown London, empty and eerily beautiful in the early morning light looked stunning. This
Burton also adopted a make-do and mend approach, using metres and metres of deadstock fabric for plump, tulle ballerina skirts and delicate lace dresses. She stripped gowns down to the underpinnings and patch-worked suiting into hybrids – Prince of Wales with twill, denim and leather. The film showed men’s and women’s collections together for the first time, which only underlined this designer’s consistent and singular vision.
Photography courtesy of Alexander McQueen, video directed by Jonathan Glazer.