Back in May, London boutique
Describing her designs as “mental armour”, Lueder develops garments equipped to help the wearer navigate the difficult times we live in. Through the brand, tailoring meets sportswear to evoke a design lexicon that feels both empowering and protective. “I was dating an ex-partner for nearly 10 years who was very suicidal at the end of our relationship,” says Lueder. “I was not conscious that I create this armour, but the more he fell sick, the more I created this functionality for his mind through the garment. He was for sure my biggest muse and biggest inspiration that led to this direction.”
A graduate of the
Going on to undergo a three-year tailoring internship straight after high school, before studying fashion design in her home city, it wasn’t until Lueder began her MA in menswear at the RCA in 2016 when she truly began to define her practice. “I wasn’t sure if I wanted to be an artist or a designer, but after studying at RCA, they teach how you can incorporate all this design thinking into a product and that it doesn’t always need to tell a happy story.” Through her work, Lueder embraces vulnerability. “If everyone suffers from mental health problems, why shouldn’t we make an open dialogue about it and then embrace it?”
Having already shown at
Upcycled jersey t-shirts are spliced together in swirled formations; envisioned to “empower this struggling, spiraling generation”, says the designer. Trousers are a strong point, whether it be deconstructed rave jeans or streamlined nylon trackies made from recycled ocean plastic. The look is completed with an ivory, split-sleeved cowboy shirt and an iridescent anorak inspired by the hues of a mood ring – “just a funny reminder to yourself to remember how you feel”.
Working alongside artist George Jasper Stone, the pair digitally rendered London poet
Charging forward, Lueder hopes to expand her practice. For a large chunk of the year, she’s been remotely creative directing an emerging band out in Hawaii and is working on a collection that will be shown at London Fashion Week in the not-so-distant future. “I want to blend these two works and collaborate with as many people as possible,” she says.
Photography courtesy of Lueder.