Bubbles, Algae, and Plastics Go Haute Couture in ‘Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses’

Riding the coattails—or perhaps it would be more apt to say the gown trails—of the monumental retrospective exhibition in 2023 in Paris at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the Brooklyn Museum is about to open the striking new edition of Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses. Building upon the previous presentation’s emphasis on the way fashion meets art, this show also includes recent collections like Sympoeisis, reaffirming Iris van Herpen’s one-of-a-kind approach to sustainable, sculptural couture.

Van Herpen is known for her elaborate dresses that incorporate high-tech processes and materials, such as laser-cutting and Plexiglas, while also embracing the rhythms and patterns of biological and celestial realms. At this year’s Met Gala, for example, Olympic skier Eileen Gu arrived in a dress titled “Airu,” which was not only coated in plastic bubbles but also emitted real ones. In the “Living Algae” look from her 2025 Sympoeisis collection, van Herpen even incorporates real Pyrocystis lunula, a type of algae that forms a crescent shape and glows in the dark.

a model wears a blue, sculptural, high-tech dress by Iris Van Herpen
“Living Algae” look from the ‘Sympoiesis’ collection (2025), Pyrocystis lunula algae, nutrient gel, H2O, silicone, silk organza, and tulle. Collaborator: Chris Bellamy. Model: Stella Maxwell. Photo by Molly SJ Lowe

“Fascinated by the complexity of nature and the power of science, van Herpen transforms scientific concepts into visionary fashion,” says a statement. “Drawing from wide-ranging fields spanning mathematics, neuroscience, marine biology, paleontology, mycology, mineralogy, astronomy, and more, her haute couture designs seamlessly merge art, science, and technology—evoking the often unseen structures of nature, from coral reefs and branching systems of fungi to the vast patterns of planetary motion.”

Sculpting the Senses features more than 140 haute couture designs, plus the works of numerous artists like Kenny Nguyen, Wim Delvoye, Agostino Arrivabene, 目[Mé], Katsumata Chieko, Tara Donovan, and many others—several of whom have pieces in the Brooklyn Museum’s own collection. The experience is also complemented by a multi-sensory soundscape created by Dutch composer and music producer Salvador Breed.

The show opens on May 16 and continues through December 6 in Brooklyn. See more on van Herpen’s Instagram and YouTube.

a model wears a sculptural, high-tech dress by Iris Van Herpen
“Labyrinthine” dress from the ‘Sensory Seas’ collection (2020), glass organza, crepe, tulle, and Mylar, modeled by Cynthia Arrebola. Photo by David Ụzọchukwu
an installation view of a high-tech, elaborate dress on a mannequin in the exhibition 'Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses,' in front of another artwork that looks like a wave frozen in space
Installation view of ‘Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses,’ Brooklyn Museum, New York
a model wears a white, sculptural, high-tech dress by Iris Van Herpen
“Morphogenesis” dress from the ‘Sensory Seas’ collection (2020), laser-cut and screen-printed mesh, duchesse satin, and laser-cut Plexiglas, created in collaboration with Philip Beesley and modeled by Yue Han. Photo by David Ụzọchukwu
a model wears a white, sculptural, high-tech dress by Iris Van Herpen
“Loie” dress from the ‘Sympoiesis’ collection (2025), silk satin and resin, modeled by Akuol Deng Atem. Photo by Gio Staiano
an installation view of high-tech, elaborate dresses on mannequins in the exhibition 'Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses'
Installation view of ‘Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses,’ Brooklyn Museum, New York
a model wears a sculptural, high-tech dress by Iris Van Herpen
“Shift Souls” dress from the ‘Shift Souls’ collection (2019), laser-cut Komon Koubou textile, silk organza, and Mylar, modeled by Issa Lish. Photo © Sølve Sundsbø
an installation view of a high-tech, elaborate dress on a mannequin in the exhibition 'Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses,' next to some other artworks
Installation view of ‘Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses,’ Brooklyn Museum, New York

Do stories and artists like this matter to you? Become a Colossal Member today and support independent arts publishing for as little as $7 per month. The article Bubbles, Algae, and Plastics Go Haute Couture in ‘Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses’ appeared first on Colossal.

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