What Do Astronomy and Jewelry Have in Common? In the Late Renaissance, Look to the Stars

In the famous first stanza of the 17th-century poem “Auguries of Innocence,” William Blake writes:

To see a world in a grain of sand
And a heaven in a wild flower,
Hold infinity in the palm of your hand
And eternity in an hour.

Perhaps Blake didn’t intend us to literally hold infinity in our hands, but he may have been aware that there was, in a manner of speaking, a way to don the entire known universe.

a photo of an armillary ring with engraved symbols and Zodiac signs
Photo by Ulf Bruxe, Historical Museum/SHM

Combining the elegance of gold jewelry with the meticulous craftsmanship of intricate timepieces, a unique style of ring emerged from a fashion for the cosmos during the 16th and 17th centuries. Known as armillary rings, these deceptively simple gold creations can be worn on the finger like any other band, but when removed, they open up into a sphere made of several interconnecting circular bands operated by delicate hinges.

Examples of armillary rings in the British Museum and the Swedish National Museums of History have been traced to Germany, made during the Late Renaissance as the study of astronomy reached new heights. In 1543, Copernicus essentially launched the scientific revolution when he claimed that the Earth rotates around the Sun, not the other way around.

A few years later, Italian polymath Galileo Galilei, known as a pioneer of observational astronomy, built a telescope powerful enough to, for the first time, observe the stars of the Milky Way, see Jupiter’s four largest satellites, and make out Saturn’s rings, among other discoveries.

The historic gold rings are based on ancient astronomical instruments called armillary spheres, which emerged from the long-disproven theory that everything in the cosmos revolved around Earth. The designs, which were used since at least the 2nd century, place our planet at the center. A group of rings rotates on an axis, providing reference points for locating other celestial bodies. Separate bands correlate to the equator, the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn, and the revolution of the Sun—a ring which also represents the constellations of the Zodiac.

a photo of an armillary ring shown closed with the hinges visible inside
Photo by Nina Davis, Historical Museum/SHM
a photo of an armillary ring with engraved symbols and Zodiac signs
Photo by Helena Bonnevier, Historical Museum/SHM
a photo of an armillary ring with no ornamentation
Image © The Trustees of the British Museum
a photo of an armillary ring with engraved symbols and Zodiac signs
Image © The Trustees of the British Museum
a photo of an armillary ring with engraved symbols and Zodiac signs
Photo by Helena Bonnevier, Historical Museum/SHM

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